As we have already pointed out in the last article, the art of making perfumes dates back to before the new era. And what is happening today?
Today, after so much time, different types of fragrances are available to us, as well as different concentrations of perfume oils.
What is the strength?
Well, let’s then break down the strength of these works of art first.
Regarding the concentration, ie the strength of the perfume, there are several categories:
– Refreshing, water – duration less than an hour. This is the version with the lowest concentration of the fragrant base, usually with one to three per cent of perfume oil dissolved in alcohol and water.
– Cologne – lasts about two hours or more. It is the oldest term for perfume, originally and most often used in North America for men’s fragrances. Light, fresh and fruity, it usually contains two to four per cent of perfume oils dissolved in alcohol and water. It is mostly used for fragrances intended for young people.
– Eau de toilette – lasts about three hours. A light mixture in a spray with five to 15 per cent of fragrant oil (base) dissolved in alcohol.
– Eau de perfume – lasts five to eight hours. It is used as a label for both men’s and women’s fragrances. It contains 15 to 20 per cent pure perfume oil.
– Perfume – lasts up to 24 hours. A corrupted version of the Latin phrase per-fumum (through smoke). The most expensive perfume, with the highest percentage of fragrant bases. It is much oilier than the others because the perfume contains 20 to 30 per cent of fragrant oil. It can take more than 24 hours!
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A fragrant pyramid
Top notes are the initial, lighter scent of the perfume that first reaches the nose. Its duration is from fifteen minutes to several hours. The notes mostly used on the “top” are citrus, or they can be marine, all to win the customer to the “first ball”.
The middle note emphasizes the main elements of the fragrance. It develops when the top note evaporates and can last for three to five hours after spraying the perfume on the skin.
Middle notes can be, for example, rose, which is mainly used in women’s perfumes, but also in so-called “unisex” creations. Middle notes can be leather, jasmine, tobacco, coffee, vanilla …
The base note serves to connect the whole composition. It binds the scent to the wearer’s skin. Thus, these notes form a solid foundation of the fragrant composition itself. Also, they determine the duration of the perfume, because they are so dominant and lasting. The base note can last from five to 10 hours after applying the perfume. In the base, we can usually expect woody notes, for example, sandalwood but also amber, musk and many other exotic fragrant notes.
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Rules, rules…
Unfortunately, or fortunately (as who likes a certain perfume), all these rules can fall into the water, especially as far as the concentration of oil is concerned, and all depending on the skin of the wearer. Precisely because of that, pure perfume oil on someone’s skin can last for hours and hours and have a weaker “aura” (spreading the scent), or even a very short duration. Thus, the wearer of a certain expensive creation can state that he does not even notice the applied scent on himself, and experience a not so cheap disappointment.
Therefore, it is very important that when choosing a perfume, we let it stay on our skin for a while, and not to believe the “blotter”, ie the paper sprayed with perfume and serves to feel how a particular perfume smells in the “virtual” world. Only then, after a few hours, can we have a relatively realistic impression – do we like a certain fragrant creation and how it reacts with our skin. So, mind you, let’s order samples or decanters first.